Dundee Hills Sommelier Series: Mushroom Recipes
Kevin Schlachter’s life changed in a California restaurant when he first experienced how food and wine can elevate and transform each other. His passion for European history and agriculture deepened his interest, leading him to Nicolas-Jay Estate in Oregon’s Dundee Hills, a region he views as the epitome of Willamette Valley wines.
As a certified sommelier and the director of national sales, Kevin’s expertise in nuanced Pinot Noir and the emerging strength of Chardonnay shapes how he educates others and approaches food and wine pairings. When presenting Nicolas-Jay Estate wines to sommeliers across the country, Kevin focuses on telling the story behind each bottle, and understanding how sommeliers carefully craft their wine lists. With thousands of options to choose from, standing out is critical. “Somms are truly artists, and the wine list is the palette upon which they paint,” he says.
With the fall season settled in, Kevin crafted a three-course dinner menu featuring recipes and wines from the Dundee Hills, designed to highlight mushrooms with expertly curated pairings. The umami flavors in mushrooms—paired with the earthy notes of Oregon’s Pinot Noir—create an ideal match. “Oregon is home to world-class Pinot Noir,” Kevin notes, “but our mushroom harvests are also the envy of chefs across the country.”
Course 1 – Salad
Before jumping into the rich umami of this mushroom-centric menu, start your meal with a bright salad, complemented by the minerality and fruit-forward notes of a Dundee Hills white wine. This recipe from the chef at Archery Summit is phenomenal; it features stone fruit, Marcona almonds, fresh herbs, and feta and begs for a crisp blanc served beside it.
Wine characteristics – Clean, fresh flavors are critical when pairing wine with salads of any style and weight. The wine must be fermented dry, devoid of any noticeable oak influence, and feature crisp minerality with delicate fruit nuances. Typically, this would lead toward an ‘alternative white’ range of wines, and the Willamette Valley has some delicious options to choose from.
- 2023 DePonte Melon de Bourgogne – Originating from the Loire region in France, Melon de Bourgogne (boor-gon-nyuh) from DePonte Cellars offers refreshing, crisp citrus aromas, a hint of peach, and a touch of saline minerality that brings persistence and tension to the palate. While it’s a classic choice for seafood, it pairs beautifully with the fresh herbs in this salad, balancing the richness of the goat cheese with effortless elegance. This combination will awaken your taste buds, setting the stage for the next course.
- 2022 Nicolas-Jay Estate L’Alliance Blanc – L’Alliance [lay-ly-uhns] is a two-barrel blend of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay from the Nicolas-Jay estate vineyard, Bishop Creek, in the Yamhill-Carlton district. This wine showcases delicate aromas of white peach blossom, Honeycrisp apples, and a touch of fresh rain salinity that bursts from the glass. Its vibrant bouquet is ideal for pairing with this diverse salad. The flavors deepen on the palate, starting with a refreshing Pomelo grapefruit note that yields a subtle, Turkish candy-like texture.
Course 2 – Soup
While Pinot Noir may seem the obvious pairing to a mushroom-centric dish, Kevin declares Chardonnay to be an equally inspired pairing. When presenting Willamette Valley Chardonnay to U.S. sommeliers, he prefers the term “Willamette Valley Blanc” over “Oregon Chardonnay.” Thanks to precise clones and the region’s moderate climate, these Chardonnays closely resemble their European counterparts. They offer fresh aromatics, palate tension, and a strong sense of terroir that aligns more with French wine regions than those in California.
Recipe: Creamy Mushroom & Potato Soup from Lange Estate
Wine characteristics – For this dish, a medium-plus style wine is ideal. A bold, focused Chardonnay with structure and persistence will be an excellent choice, offering acidity along with tightly integrated minerality and a long finish—showcasing Willamette Valley Blanc at its best. For optimal enjoyment, allow these wines to rest for 20–30 minutes after opening.
- 2022 Nicolas-Jay Estate Bishop Creek Vineyard Chardonnay – Using a Champagne-style press cycle, this old-vine Chardonnay delivers exceptional freshness and purity for each vintage. To complement this rich soup from Lange Estate, you need a white wine with power and structure. Its river rock minerality and sugar beet texture pair seamlessly with the mushroom’s salinity and earthiness. The hint of nutmeg in the dish melds with the wine’s fresh French oak essence, creating a pure umami experience balanced by the tension and precision of top-tier Willamette Valley Blanc brilliance.
- 2021 Holloran Le Pavillon Chardonnay, Dundee Hills – Mark La Gasse, a renowned Dundee Hills winemaker, has crafted an exceptional 2021 single vineyard wine. Barrel fermented from own-rooted vines, it shines with this pairing. The citrus notes cut through the richness of the dish, elevating its flavors and creating a delicious intensity.
Course 3 – Main
Kevin declares this Michael Stiller dish from Tina’s to be one of the best mushroom dishes on the West Coast. Serving alongside this hearty risotto recipe from Trellis will transform it into a full entrée and a breathtaking combination with the world-class wines from the Dundee Hills.
Recipe: Truffled Marsala Mushrooms from Tina’s Restaurant
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Recipe: Mushroom Risotto from Trellis Restaurant
Wine Characteristics – A naturally fermented, terroir-driven Pinot Noir pairs exceptionally well with the earthy flavors of mushrooms. Look for wines made in a traditional Burgundian style, showcasing bright acidity and strong terroir character. This style of Pinot Noir complements the powerful yet delicate nuances of mushroom dishes. Remember to serve it straight from the cellar at a cool temperature.
- 2021 Nicolas-Jay Estate L’Ensemble Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley – This wine showcases Jean-Nicolas Méo’s expertise, blending the best blocks and barrels for exquisite texture and persistence. Its sweet citrus and power beautifully complement the savory Truffled Marsala Mushroom dish. Polished tannins and orange zest nuances cut through the creamy risotto, keeping your palate refreshed for each bite. A stunning mushroom and Pinot Noir pairing that will impress your guests.
- 2021 Resonance Vineyard Pinot Noir – This wine, crafted by winemaker Guillaume Large, is a fantastic expression of Willamette Valley terroir. Its herb, violet, and forest floor aromas make it an excellent match for this dish. The taut acidity and old-world lift on the palate provide the perfect backdrop to enhance the sweet herbaceousness of the mushrooms and the creamy richness of the Arborio rice.
